Ferrata Giuseppe di Olivieri und Gianni Aglio (variant D)

C/D, DifficultRated 5.0 out of 5

Italy

On the map
C/D, DifficultVia ferrata grade

Rated 5.0 out of 5

Getting there

Length
580 m
Via ferrata
5 h 30 min
Approach
1 h
Descent
2 h
Vertical climb
580 m
  • Long / full-day

About this route

The Ferrata Giuseppe di Olivieri und Gianni Aglio runs along the ridge linking Dos de Tofana with Tofana di Mezzo, finishing at the 3244-metre summit high above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Graded C/D with around 580 metres of climbing, the Aglio variant is short but thoroughly exposed, with a metal ladder, an airy traverse above the natural arch known as Bus de Tofana and panoramic ledges dropping away on both sides. Several unprotected passages, particularly near the saddle and on the final approach to the cross, demand sustained concentration. Usually started from Rifugio Dibona, the full day can stretch towards fourteen hours, though the Tofana cable car shortens it considerably. This is a serious high-mountain undertaking reserved for fit, experienced ferratists.

Highlights

  • Summit ridge to Tofana di Mezzo
  • Exposed Aglio traverse above Bus de Tofana
  • Panoramic ledges over sheer drops

Route map

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  • Start
  • Parking

Ferrata topo

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  1. Section 1 of 31 · grade C
  2. Section 2 of 31 · grade A/B, lange Querung
  3. Section 3 of 31 · grade A
  4. Section 4 of 31 · grade B
  5. Section 5 of 31 · grade A/B
  6. Section 6 of 31 · grade B
  7. Section 7 of 31 · grade C
  8. Section 8 of 31 · grade A/B
  9. Section 9 of 31 · grade C/D
  10. Section 10 of 31 · grade C
  11. Section 11 of 31 · grade A
  12. Section 12 of 31 · grade B
  13. Section 13 of 31 · grade A
  14. Section 14 of 31 · grade A/B
  15. Section 15 of 31 · grade C/D
  16. Section 16 of 31 · grade C/D
  17. Section 17 of 31 · grade C, Band
  18. Section 18 of 31 · grade C, Steilstufe
  19. Section 19 of 31 · grade B/C, Band
  20. Section 20 of 31 · grade C, Steilstufe
  21. Section 21 of 31 · grade B
  22. Section 22 of 31 · grade C
  23. Section 23 of 31 · grade B
  24. Section 24 of 31 · grade C
  25. Section 25 of 31 · grade A/B, steil
  26. Section 26 of 31 · grade C
  27. Section 27 of 31 · grade B
  28. Section 28 of 31 · grade A/B, gestuft (A/B) und gehen bis zum Gipfel
  29. Section 29 of 31 · grade A
  30. Section 30 of 31 · grade D, Variante Torre Aglio
  31. Section 31 of 31 · grade C/D, Variante: steile Hangelquerung; um den Turm
  • Start: Einstieg bei Tafel
  • Exit
  • Summit: Tofana di Mezzo 3244 m
  • Hut: Rif. Cima (Bergstat.)
  • Ladder: Leiter
  • Ladder: Leiter
  • Ladder: Leiter
  • Crux: durch Felsenfenster
  • Crux: Bus de Tofana 2910 m
  • Crux: Einstieg Gipfelklettersteig bei roter Aufschrift „Cima“

Select a section on the topo, or step through the route section by section.

Grades

Key

  • Start
  • Exit
  • Summit
  • Hut
  • Ladder
  • Crux
  • Approach
  • Trail
  • Descent

Redrawn by Klettr from a topo by bergsteigen.com

Weather

Forecast for the start of the route

Friday, October 30

Clear

Feels like
-5° / -9°
Precipitation
0 mm
Wind
8 km/h Gusts 25 km/h
UV index
3
Sunrise
06:50
Sunset
16:59
Hourly forecast, Friday, October 30
00:0001:0002:0003:0004:0005:0006:0007:0008:0009:0010:0011:0012:0013:0014:0015:0016:0017:0018:0019:0020:0021:0022:0023:00
ConditionsClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClear
Temperature-5°-5°-5°-5°-5°-5°-5°-5°-5°-4°-3°-3°-2°-2°-1°-2°-2°-3°-4°-4°-4°-4°-4°-4°
Feels like-8°-8°-9°-9°-9°-8°-9°-9°-9°-8°-7°-7°-6°-6°-5°-5°-5°-6°-7°-8°-8°-8°-8°-8°
Precipitation0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%
Wind km/h 4 N 4 NW 4 NW 6 NW 5 NW 3 NW 4 N 3 N 4 N 6 NE 7 E 8 E 7 E 8 E 8 E 7 E 6 E 5 NE 5 N 7 N 6 N 6 NE 8 NE 6 NE
Gusts km/h121311131212111215161819171517161615162120212325
UV index000000000123333210000000

Weather by Open-Meteo

Photos