Fernau Klettersteig

D, DifficultRated 5.0 out of 5 Google rating 5.0 3 reviews

Austria

On the map
D, DifficultVia ferrata grade

Rated 5.0 out of 5

Getting there

Length
320 m
Via ferrata
1 h 45 min
Approach
15 min
Descent
20 min
Vertical climb
15 m
  • Short walk-in

About this route

The Fernau Express Klettersteig is short but ferociously hard, an E-graded route on the Egesengrat in the Stubai Alps and among the toughest via ferratas in Tyrol. Friction climbing on small-hold, largely vertical granite is the theme, demanding sustained technique and strength with barely a place to rest. It shares its start with the gentler standard Fernau ferrata, so you can pick a line to match your level, while the summit opens up sweeping views over the Stubai glaciers and lakes. A cable car runs up toward the Dresdner Hütte, from where the entry is a short walk. Avoid it in the wet, when lichen makes the rock slick, and tackle it only as a genuinely strong, experienced climber.

Highlights

  • Small-hold vertical friction granite
  • Two grade E overhang cruxes
  • Sweeping Stubai glacier views

Route map

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  • Start
  • Parking

Ferrata topo

Use plus and minus to zoom, the arrow keys to move around and 0 to show the whole topo.

  1. Section 1 of 18 · grade B
  2. Section 2 of 18 · grade C, plattig
  3. Section 3 of 18 · grade B/C, Grat
  4. Section 4 of 18 · grade C, Steilstück
  5. Section 5 of 18 · grade C, Wandstelle
  6. Section 6 of 18 · grade C, luftige Ecke
  7. Section 7 of 18 · grade C/D, schmaler Spalt
  8. Section 8 of 18 · grade C/D, luftige Querung
  9. Section 9 of 18 · grade C/D, steil!
  10. Section 10 of 18 · grade C, Grat
  11. Section 11 of 18 · grade C, kurz absteigen
  12. Section 12 of 18 · grade C
  13. Section 13 of 18 · grade D, Platte
  14. Section 14 of 18 · grade D, steil!
  15. Section 15 of 18 · grade B/C, Querung
  16. Section 16 of 18 · grade B/C, Stufe
  17. Section 17 of 18 · grade B
  18. Section 18 of 18 · grade B, Grat
  • Start: Einstieg 2340 m
  • Rest spot: Absatz
  • Crux
  • Route book: Absatz mit Steigbuch
  • Exit: Ausstieg 2536 m
  • Summit: Egesengrat 2631 m

Select a section on the topo, or step through the route section by section.

Grades

Key

  • Start
  • Rest spot
  • Crux
  • Route book
  • Exit
  • Summit
  • Approach
  • Descent
  • Trail

Redrawn by Klettr from a topo by bergsteigen.com

Weather

Forecast for the start of the route

Friday, October 30

Mainly clear

Feels like
-3° / -7°
Precipitation
0 mm
Wind
9 km/h Gusts 17 km/h
UV index
3
Sunrise
06:54
Sunset
17:02
Hourly forecast, Friday, October 30
00:0001:0002:0003:0004:0005:0006:0007:0008:0009:0010:0011:0012:0013:0014:0015:0016:0017:0018:0019:0020:0021:0022:0023:00
ConditionsClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearClearMainly clearMainly clearMainly clearMainly clearMainly clearMainly clearClearClearClear
Temperature-2°-2°-2°-2°-3°-3°-3°-3°-3°-2°-1°0°1°1°1°1°1°-1°-2°-2°-2°-2°-2°-3°
Feels like-6°-6°-6°-7°-7°-7°-7°-7°-7°-5°-4°-4°-3°-3°-3°-3°-3°-4°-5°-6°-6°-6°-6°-7°
Precipitation0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%0%
Wind km/h 4 S 5 S 6 S 6 S 6 S 6 S 6 SE 5 SE 3 S 2 E 4 NE 6 NE 9 NE 9 NE 9 NE 8 NE 7 NE 3 E 5 SW 6 SW 7 SW 6 SW 5 SW 6 SW
Gusts km/h991010101010974812161617141310710101098
UV index000000000123333210000000

Weather by Open-Meteo

Photos