Fernau Express Klettersteig
Austria
Getting there
Parking
Route start
- Length
- 320 m
- Via ferrata
- 1 h 45 min
- Approach
- 15 min
- Descent
- 35 min
- Vertical climb
- 15 m
About this route
The Fernau Express Klettersteig is short but ferociously hard, an E-graded route on the Egesengrat in the Stubai Alps and among the toughest via ferratas in Tyrol. Friction climbing on small-hold, largely vertical granite is the theme, demanding sustained technique and strength with barely a place to rest. It shares its start with the gentler standard Fernau ferrata, so you can pick a line to match your level, while the summit opens up sweeping views over the Stubai glaciers and lakes. A cable car runs up toward the Dresdner Hütte, from where the entry is a short walk. Avoid it in the wet, when lichen makes the rock slick, and tackle it only as a genuinely strong, experienced climber.
Highlights
- Small-hold vertical friction granite
- Two grade E overhang cruxes
- Sweeping Stubai glacier views
Route map
- Start
- Parking
Ferrata topo
Use plus and minus to zoom, the arrow keys to move around and 0 to show the whole topo.
- Section 1 of 20 · grade C/D, plattig
- Section 2 of 20 · grade D
- Section 3 of 20 · grade E, Überhang!
- Section 4 of 20 · grade C
- Section 5 of 20 · grade B, Querung
- Section 6 of 20 · grade A
- Section 7 of 20 · grade C/D, steile Platte!
- Section 8 of 20 · grade C
- Section 9 of 20 · grade B
- Section 10 of 20 · grade C
- Section 11 of 20 · grade D
- Section 12 of 20 · grade D/E, Klammer Kamin
- Section 13 of 20 · grade E
- Section 14 of 20 · grade D, sehr steile Kante!
- Section 15 of 20 · grade C, Pfeiler
- Section 16 of 20 · grade C/D
- Section 17 of 20 · grade B, Grat
- Section 18 of 20 · grade C, Pfeiler
- Section 19 of 20 · grade D/E, sehr steil!
- Section 20 of 20 · grade A/B, Schrofen
- Start: 2380 m
- Exit: Ausstieg 2536 m
- Summit: Egesengrat 2631 m
- Rest spot
- Rest spot
- Rest spot
- Rest spot
Select a section on the topo, or step through the route section by section.
Grades
Key
- Start
- Exit
- Summit
- Rest spot
- Descent
- Approach
- Trail
Redrawn by Klettr from a topo by bergsteigen.com
Weather
Forecast for the start of the route
Friday, October 30
Mainly clear
- Feels like
- -3° / -7°
- Precipitation
- 0 mm
- Wind
- 9 km/h Gusts 17 km/h
- UV index
- 3
- Sunrise
- 06:54
- Sunset
- 17:02
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|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Conditions | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Clear | Mainly clear | Mainly clear | Mainly clear | Mainly clear | Mainly clear | Mainly clear | Clear | Clear | Clear |
| Temperature | -2° | -2° | -2° | -2° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -2° | -1° | 0° | 1° | 1° | 1° | 1° | 1° | -1° | -2° | -2° | -2° | -2° | -2° | -3° |
| Feels like | -6° | -6° | -6° | -7° | -7° | -7° | -7° | -7° | -7° | -5° | -4° | -4° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -3° | -4° | -5° | -6° | -6° | -6° | -6° | -7° |
| Precipitation | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% | 0% |
| Wind km/h | 4 S | 5 S | 6 S | 6 S | 6 S | 6 S | 6 SE | 5 SE | 3 S | 2 E | 4 NE | 6 NE | 9 NE | 9 NE | 9 NE | 8 NE | 7 NE | 3 E | 5 SW | 6 SW | 7 SW | 6 SW | 5 SW | 6 SW |
| Gusts km/h | 9 | 9 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 12 | 16 | 16 | 17 | 14 | 13 | 10 | 7 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 8 |
| UV index | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |